1/27/2011

Zōri have arrived - 草履が届いた


My zōri (traditonal kimono shoes) finally arrived today! I had them custom made and I'm so happy because they are so big! I've been watching women and their zōri lately, and I know what my kimono-sensei told me, but I think modern girls are wearing them bigger (and thus more comfortably). These aren't as wide as my feet, but they are exactly the same length which means when I start to wear them properly (pulling my toes back and not wearing them like flip-flops) my heel will hang over!! Yay!

草履がやっと家に届いた!大きいサイズだから特別注文で作ってもらった。大きくてうれしい!今の子は草履を大きめで履いているようだ。この草履の幅は私の足より短いが、長さはぴったりなのだ。履いてみたらちゃんと足のかかとが草履をちょっと出た。これが正しい草履の履き方だと教わった。やったあ!


So here's the before and after transformations shots. Bye-bye boots, hello zōri. Just by virtue of the colour, perhaps, everything looks softer after the kimono dressing.

これが変身の前と後の写真。ブーツにはさよおならだった。草履の色のおかげで私の着物姿の印象が柔らかくなった。



Today was a balmy 8°C (ha - try wearing a silk garment and thinking that's mild) so I headed down to the Meguro river for a quick photoshoot. Trying not to look cold or show the wind. The zōri can make a loud flip-flop sound, so I was practicing talking smaller steps and diminishing the sound. More practice needed!

今日の温度は8度だった。フォトシュートをするために川に行った。写真ではなるべく風の寒さを見せないようにした。草履で歩くとガタガタ音がするので、なるべく静かな歩き方をしようと努力した。もっと練習しなければいけない!


And here I am proudly showing off the result of Sato-san's 'secret technique' for making a straight line on the fold of the Kimono! And if you are looking for a great demonstration on how to tie hira obi, check out this link! I can get dressed in under an hour now!

これは着物の帯をまっすぐ結ぶための佐藤さんの秘密のテクニークなのだ。平帯の結び方はこのリンクで見られる。私はもう一時間以内で準備ができる!



On the way home we stopped at a great new store that has opened on Yamate Dori, in Nakameguro, called Migratory. Everything in this beautiful store is handmade and they carry a small, select collection of housewares, bags, stationary and textiles. Oops, you can see my underlayer peeking out!

家に帰る途中に中目黒の山手道理にある新しいお店ミグラトリーに入った。このお店の物は全部手作りでいろいろな家庭用品やバッグなど売っていた。あらら、私の襦袢が見える!

1/20/2011

Reflections on Kimono − 着物について

I think that kimono wearers and aficionados would be a modern-day tribe. Or at least that's what it felt like when I visited the Ikeda Shigeko Collection: The Elegance of Kimono exhibit at Matsuya Department store. Matsuya, which started as a kimono store in 1869 was the perfect location for the display of more than 60 kimono and kimono accessories from the collection of designer Shigeko Ikeda. Ikeda started her own kimono label, Yume-koubou, in the 1980s, which she later followed with The Shigeko Ikeda Collection. Both lines were a huge success that brought her many fans and helped popularize the traditional garment among younger generations. Passionate about kimono and its aesthetic as a whole, Ikeda collected about 8,000 kimono and their related items over a period of 30 years. The "Ikeda Shigeko Collection" exhibition series first ran in the early 1990s. It has since traveled Japan and overseas.

私は銀座松屋デパートで「池田重子コレクション、日本のおしゃれ展」というエキジビションに行った。それはまるで着物ファンクラブの集まりみたいだった。松屋は1869年に呉服屋として始まったので、池田重子のコレクションを見るにぴったりの場所である。彼女は1980年代から約8000着の着物のコレクションをしており、現代の若い女性を中心としたレトロきものブームのきっかけとなったとよく言われている。コレクションは、主に明治から大正、昭和初期までの、きもの文化が黄金時代を迎えた時期に作られたきものや帯、帯留など、一万点以上にも及ぶ和装品の一大コレクションなのだ。

But its not just Shigeko herself who is passionate about kimono, the show drew hundreds on the day I attended. Seminars were given by a 74-year old sensei, who not only had some tricks up her sleeve, but has also crafted a set of ties and clips to make getting into kimono, and creating clean lines, easier. In the demonstration I watched, Sato-san was explaining to the women in the audience that if they had to go somewhere - like a reunion, and wanted to look younger that a particular obi knot (which she was deftly showcasing while she was talking) would be the talk of the reunion for how young it would make the wearer appear.

私が松屋に行った日には74歳の先生が着物の着付けのセミナーをしていた。「同窓会でもっと若く見える帯の縛り方」など、いろいろな着付けのレッスンを教えていた。

I've run home with a September issue of a fashion magazine (long before the movie) and poured over page after page with girlfriends, I've attended Fashion Weeks and fashion trade shows and yet this was the first time I saw such a large group of women dedicated to a particular style. Kimono doesn't offer a lot of variations; one-style for single women, another for married, shoes come in: summer, winter or dressy. And the main distinctions lie in kimono or obi colour choices and flair.

特別のファッションに興味を持っている女性がこんなに数多く集まるのを初めて見た。結婚用だけの着物や夏用の下駄などいろいろな着物商品の種類はあるが、着物を洋服の種類比べれば、かなり限られている。着物は種類より色とキャラクターで異なるのだ。

One of the highlights of the Shigeko'collection was a display of 250 obidome. This is the added accessory (like jewellery) for the obi that can be themed on nature, seasonal motifs or traditional events. They can be made with metal, jewels, coral, beads, lacquer etc. The piece of flair that would stand out (they range in price from tens to thousands of dollars - the only thing I can think that compares would be jewellery; necklaces, earrings etc.)

'Fashion is not about looking gorgeous or grand, but about trying to be stylish' Shigeko Ikeda stated in a recent article in the Yomiuri. So are kimono wearers that different, then?

重子さんのコレクションには250種類の帯留がそろっていた。これは季節や伝統的なイベントなどによって付けるアクセサリーなのだ。メタル、宝石、コラル、ビーズなど、いろいろな物から作られている。重子さんは最近読売新聞にファッションというものは素敵な姿にするためだけではなく、スタイリッシュになるためのものなのだと言ったらしい。着物を着る女性もそういうことなのかな?

1/17/2011

Out in Ginza − 銀座にお出かけ


I visited the Ikeda Shigeko Collection: The Elegance of Kimono collection at Matsuya Ginza. The exhibit featured about 60 kimono from Ikeda's collection of 8,000 kimono and accessories. Each was shown on dress forms complete with obi, obijime cord, ornamental obi clasp, neckpiece and sandals, helping to paint a complete picture of how the kimono were worn.

私は銀座松屋デパートで「池田重子コレクション、日本のおしゃれ展」というエキジビションを見た。このコレクションには池田重子が選んだ着物や着物用のアクセサリーがいろいろそろっていた。


We were able to peruse all things kimono including traditional textile vendors (to make you own kimono), antique and recycled kimono as well as a demonstration of how the obijime cord is woven.

手で着物を刺繍している方の伝統的な仕事を見物できた。帯締めの作り方も見られた。


The event was filled with women, some in kimono and some not. I was thrilled that when we decided to have lunch I chose something that I hoped I could eat delicately and not spill (my first meal). This Chirashi-zushi(bits of sushi on top of rice) was perfect!

たくさんの女性が集まっていた。着物を着ている方もいたが、着ていない方もいた。私はちょっとだらしのない格好をしている気がしたので、レストランに行く時になったら零さないで食べられるものを食べようと決めた。ちらし寿司は完璧だった!

1/15/2011

Reflections on fashion - ファッションについて


It's strange to me to think that I will do this challenge for one year. From a fashion perspective it really suits me, and it really doesn't, all at the same time. I've been a vegetarian since the production of animal products in North America became less about farming and more about manufacturing (1996-ish), and as time went on I started to feel the same about clothes.

I started to feel uncomfortable buying and wearing an article of clothing that was possibly made by children in unthinkable conditions. And worry that the cotton in my t-shirt was grown with so much pesticide that entire farming villages were becoming ill. Many westerners started to feel the same and a movement was underway: the eco-fashion movement and I started to feel it's pull. I began my eco-fashion blog www.magnifeco.com to support the eco-fashion movement; to highlight designers making ethical changes in production and to show consumers where to shop for clothes that were made with less harm.

The clothes on the left: My winter outfit always looks the same: black turtleneck sweater (which you can now buy in organic varieties in many locations), jeans (which are now also available from several companies featuring organic cotton) and black boots (these happen to have been in my closet, and on my feet, every winter for the last 7 years) and warm coat (this coat is made of Teijin fabric by a company called Vaute Couture). I would call my look: street-style, dressed for warmth.

The clothes on the right: The kimono is recycled (second-hand), the wrap is recycled (second-hand), the shoes are hand-made and everything, down to the underlayers are made in Japan.

Both outfits, in the western view are 'eco-fashion'. However, the style is so radically different I don't know what to call it. I always wear my hair down but in kimono, my hair has to be up. I always cover my neck in the winter. In the picture on the left I am wearing a turtleneck and a scarf. In kimono, the neck is a sensual area that needs to be shown (maybe not on cold days, but exposed nonetheless). I prefer chunky, heavy, comfortable boots and in kimono I need to wear pretty, delicate, not so comfortable geta/z ori. I feel like a different woman. Is it true that clothes make the person?

My integrity and all the things I believe in are the same... both outfits reflect me and my care for the environment and the planet, in their respective styles. Same but different. Should style, and the clothes you wear, or the way you wear them, affect you? When I am out in kimono I feel the way I always do. I carry a picture of myself as confident and proud that isn't tied to the outfit I am wearing. However, when I look at the pictures afterwards I find myself staring and wondering... who is that woman? The one on the right is still a stranger to my mind's eye.


私はこのプロジェクトのことを考えると、すこし不思議な気分になる時がある。「着物の一年」プロジェクトを私のもうひとつのエコファッションプロジェクトと比べると、共通点もあれば、まったく正反対の部分もある。1996年代の北米の脱農業、大量生産時代への突入と時を同じくして、私はベジタリアンになった。エコファションへの関心は4年前ぐらいに始まった。自分が着ているT−シャツはもしかしたら「酷い目に合った子供達が作ったかもしれない」と考えると非常に嫌な気分になった。T-シャツの大量生産のために使っている農薬のせいで村の人々が病気になっていると聞いたらとても苦しくなった。それがきっかけでエコファッションムーブメントをサポートし始めて、自分のエコファッションブログ www.magnifeco.com を立ち上げた。
左のアウトフィット:私の冬のアウトフィットはいつも同じ。黒いポロネック (オーガニックの種類も買える)、デニム(オーガニックコットンのも買える)、黒いブーツと厚いコート。ブーツはもう7年前買った物。コートは Vaute Coutureというレーブルで買ったTEIJINファブリックのコート。私の冬のアウトフィットは暖かい、ストリートファッションである。

右のアウトフィット:この着物はリサイクル着物で、襟巻きも古着屋で買った。草履や着物の襦袢の服も全部手作りなのだ。

両方ともエコファッションではある。私は環境を守ることの大切さを信じている。両方ともこの信念に基づいている。でもスタイルはかなり違う。私は普通髪をスタイルしていないが、着物姿の時はいつも髪もアップにしなければいけない。普段私はいつもポロネックとスカーフを着ているが、着物を着る時にはかならず首を見せなければいけない。私は大きい冬用のブーツを履くのが大好きなのだが、着物姿の私はもっとデリケートでエレガントな人にならなければいけない。右の写真で着物を着ている私はまるで別人のようだ。

1/10/2011

Out in the Neighbourhood - 近所にお出かけ


Oh my gosh.... I need to go back to Kimono-school a.s.a.p. Today, it took me almost an hour to get dressed, and just when I thought I might be ready I looked down and realized my inner layer was hanging below my outer layer! But after an hour and a half of dressing, I ventured down to my local flower shop to buy some flowers.

あらら、やっぱり着物学院で早く授業を受けるべきだった。今日の着物姿の準備には1時間もかかった。やっと終わったと思ったら着物用の下着が着物の外に出てしまっていた。近所のお花屋さんに出かけるのに1時間半もかかってしまった。


Luckily, my hair doesn't take me long. Thanks to this Hair Zing, that is all the rage here, I can get my hair up in about 5 minutes! I think after a few more classes at Kimono-school, I will venture to the kimono hairdressers to learn how to look a little more polished. But for now the hair zing is a dream. Too bad there isn't a 'kimono-zing'!

しかし、ヘアスタイルの準備はHair Zingのおかげで五分で出来上がったのでとても簡単!着物学院に通い始めたらきっともっときちんとしたヘアスタイルをできる。でもそれまではhair zingを使い続ける。ああ、「着物zing」というのがあったら楽なのに!


Today was one of the coldest days of the year and I was lucky to have my wrap, but it wasn't nearly warm enough  for me. Already I was dreaming of warmer days and yukata ( a lighter, cotton kimono that is supposedly not only easier to put on and wear but very cool on hot summer days).  However, my shoes were a joy! I got some looks and received a few comments of 'suteki' (lovely) as I tried to walk in slower, smaller steps.

今日はすごく寒くて襟巻きがあって助かったがそれでも寒すぎた。もっと暖かい日で、浴衣を着られたらいいなあと思った。しかし外が寒くても草履はちょうど私によかった!小さいステップをして、ゆっくり歩こうとしたらうれしいことに、周りの人々に「素敵!」と言われた。


But the best moment was when I was trying to pose for this picture, a tiny, old lady couldn't stop staring as she approached, and then when she passed me, she turned around and started laughing. A true, deep laugh that of course brought me to laughter.

この写真のためにポーズしていたら体の小さいおばあさんが私をじーっと見つめてげらげら笑い始めた。私も一緒につられて笑っちゃった!


And before we could we could catch her laughing at me, we ran out of memory on the camera.

彼女の笑い姿の写真をとろうとしたら、カメラのメモリーがなくなってしまっていた。

1/07/2011

Shoe Dilemma -草履の問題


I was so thrilled to have made it out the door for Hatsumode (the first temple visit on the first day of the new year), that I went without proper shoes *gasp* I'm so torn, I want to be respectful and wear kimono in a way that neither embarrasses me nor anyone involved in this project. Plus, I don't want to appear to be 'flaunting' tradition, but when it came to shoes I had a struggle. My friends, advisors, the shop clerks and even my Kimono-school sensei told me that traditional zōri (proper kimono shoes as seen above) are meant to be tight and uncomfortable. My shoe size is European 40 or North American 10, 25.5 in Japan, however the largest women's shoe size sold in most Japanese stores is European 38 or North American 8.

初詣に出かけた時、私の着物姿は完璧だったはずだがちゃんとした草履を履いていなかった。本当に困った。モノを知らない人だと思われたくないし、このプロジェクトを手伝ってくれた人々にも失礼なことをしたくない。日本の伝統をバカにしていると思われたくないが、私のサイズの草履を見つけるのはかなり難しい。友達や着物学院の先生も全員私に草履はきつく履くべきだと言った。私の靴のサイズはヨールッパの40、アメリカの10、つまり日本の25.5なのだ。しかし日本の店の一番大きい女性の靴サイズはほとんどヨーロッパの38かアメリカの 8だけなのだ。


I was able to find socks and but couldn't find shoes that I could get on my feet let alone walk in. Now, traditionally zōri are not meant to fit but are meant to make the foot look smaller and thus are worn several sizes too small. After searching high and low I finall found a shoemaker online who would make me an LL size shoe in extra wide (they will still be 2 cms to short and 1 cm too narrow). But they hadn't arrived in time for Hatsumode, so I wore my Harley Davidson boots.

足袋は見つかったが私が履けるような草履がなかなか見つからなかった。一生懸命探してみたらインターネットでLLサイズを作ってくれる草履屋さんを見つけた。それでも幅は1 cm、縦は2 cm小さすぎると思う。私の新しい草履は初詣には間に合わなかったかのでハーリーブーツを履いた。


If I could, I would wear these always. They are so comfortable, but they are really not very graceful, and don't lend to walking in a delicate manner. A new solution had to be found, so with the online shoe maker saying they couldn't deliver my custom zori for another 3 weeks, I headed to Asakusa and found a shoe shop that could help.

できれば毎日このブーツを履いて歩き回りたい。とても歩きやすいがエレガントではないので着物を着てきれいな歩き方はできない。インターネットで見つけた草履が出来上がるまでには3週間もかかると言われたので、もっと早く草履を買うために浅草の別の草履屋さんに行ってみた。


Getaya have been providing Japanese footwear since 1912. And finally I was able to get a pair of yaki-geta (wood-bottom sandals) not as formal as zōri but they fit! And are more suitable than the Harley Davidson boots.

下駄屋は1912年から商売をしている。ここで私のサイズの焼き下駄を買った。草履ほどおしゃれではないが、私のサイズぴったりだった。ブーツを履くよりはましでしょう!


I was also able to pick the colour swatch and had them adjusted to fit the height of my foot. Yay - now I can carry on with the kimono wearing challenge in style.

色を変えてもらって私の足のサイズに合わせてもらった。やったあ!これで着物姿が完璧になり、プロジェクトを進めることができる。

1/03/2011

Shopping at the Market − マーケットで買い物


Shopping for kimono gear is getting expensive! I have three kimono now but only 4 obi: each kimono should have at least 3 obi to increase it's wearability and offer different looks for each kimono. But more pressingly, I need a winter coat or wrap and zōri (kimono shoes). Like everything, you can buy kimono and their accessories in shops or department stores or scout around markets and second hand shops for better prices and vintage and recycled pieces.


着物の値段は非常に高い!着物は三着持っているが帯は四本しか持っていない。一着の着物に帯が三本あったらいろいろなスタイルを試すことができると言われている。でも今はそれより着物用のコートと草履が必要なのだ。



The Oedo Antique Market in central Tokyo is one of my favourite markets. So on the first market of the year, I was there looking chiefly for a wrap and shoes but found myself distracted by beautiful obi. I love black, and in a perfect world I would wear black kimono with bright obi - and maybe motorcycle boots. It's difficult to think about pairing my own fashion sense with the traditional style that is not from my culture. Match that with my size, and it means that if I want to keep the cost down I need to wear what is available in my size. On with the shopping...

私は大江戸のマーケットが大好きだ。着物用のコートと草履を買う目的でマーケットに行ったら、素敵な帯がたくさんあった。草履のことをすっかり忘れてしまった。私は黒が大好きだからできれば黒い着物を鮮やかな色の帯といっしょに着て、モーターサイクルブーツを履きながら町を歩き回りたい。しかし自分のファッションセンスが日本の伝統的な着物とミックスしているイメージはかなり不思議なのだ。私のサイズの着物を見つけるのは難しいので、お金を無駄にしないためにはちゃんとサイズがあっている物を買うことに気をつけなければならない。




After several hours or browsing and picking through stalls I came away with a great recycled fur wrap that will hopefully keep me warm, and a handbag. Still need to find shoes.



長い時間マーケットでぶらぶらしている最中に素敵なリサイクルの毛皮の襟巻きとハンドバックを見つけた。でも草履がまだ見つからない!

1/01/2011

The First Appearance - 初めての着物でお出かけ


After a week of preparation, I was able to debut my first appearance for Hatsumode - the first visit to the shrine for New Year. New Year is a big celebration in Japan and almost everything is closed from January 1-3, temples and shrines being the exception. So, once I was dressed it was really the only place to go.
My friends had warned me that getting dressed (by myself) was only half the battle, actually arriving where you wanted to be still clothed was the other half. They warned that it is possible that if your kimono is not put on properly, that it will unravel with every step. Luckily, this didn't happen!


私は一週間準備したあと早速着物姿で初詣に出かけた。友達は私に「着物がほぐれないように気をつけなさい」と言った。着物を自分で着られるようになっても、完璧な着物姿を崩さないで歩き回るのは非常に難しいことである。歩いている最中着物が解けてしまうんではないのかと心配したが、大丈夫だった。
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